Drop-Sleeve Shirt
Sew a type of shirt worn by outdoorsmen on Missouri's frontier.
Materials:
Review general instructions on sewing and gather the items listed under basic materials.
Basic Pattern (Medium Size)
Fabrics 36" to 45" wide: Fold cross-wise for 48" length. Cut body, 30", cuffs, collar and gussets from 18"-- 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 yards required. Fabrics 48" to 54" wide: Fold cross-wise for 30" length. Cut body, 30", cuffs, collar and gussets from remain-ing side strip-1 3/4 to 2 yards required. For full-length shirtdress, extend body to about 45" (3 yards). For floor length, extend to 60" (3 1/2 yards).
Procedure:
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Obtain calico, linen or cotton print fabric. (See fabric requirements at left.)
Gusset
Collar
Sewing collar to neckline
Sleeve with gusset sewn in
Finished shirt
- Cut out pieces according to the illustration. Note that fabric is folded double.
- Cut neck opening, front slit and two 3-inch slits on either side of neck opening.
- Fold gussets to make a triangle. Stitch a triangle into each slit at the side of the neck opening.
- Hem front slit of neck opening and attach button loop.
- Run a gathering stitch (see general instructions) on front and back neckline.
- Stitch collar as shown. Turn right side out and press the garment.
- Attach collar neckline to adjusting gathers.
- Run a gathering stitch at the top and bottom of each sleeve. Fold the sleeve right side in and seam 3 inches from the cuff to 6 inches from the underarm. Insert gusset and finish seam.
- Attach sleeve to shirt body, adjusting gathers and sew. The easiest way to do this is to turn the shirt body inside out and insert the sleeve (also inside out) through the sleeve opening. Pin the upper edge of the sleeve to the edge of the shirt body and sew. Adjust the gathers so they appear evenly spaced.
- Hem the sleeve inseam opening at the cuff. Attach the cuff as you did the collar.
- Make buttonholes on the outer side of the cuff. Sew buttons at collar and on cuffs.
- Hem the shirt bottom.
