Basic Materials
A basic leatherworking kit, suitable for the projects listed in this unit, should include
-
scissors or razor knife
Awl
- awl or leather punch
- ruler (steel or wood)
- rubber, plastic or rawhide mallet
- wood block-at least 6" x 6"
- harness needles-2 minimum
- glover's needles-2 minimum
- waxed linen thread, waxed dental floss or artificial sinew
- beeswax
- rubber cement
- conditioner-neat's-foot oil or mink oil
- leather dye (black, dark brown)
- heavy paper (grocery bags)or cardboard for patterns
All of these items will fit into a small fishing tackle box. In addition to the items listed above, there are several optional tools that can make leather projects move faster. They are not necessary, however, and in some cases may detract from the "handmade" look of genuine frontier articles.
Leather
Tanned leather must be purchased from a leather dealer. Occasionally shoe factories or shoe repair shops have some leather available for purchase. An alternative to purchasing tanned leather is to obtain raw leather and tan it. Often deer hunters discard the hides. By simply inquiring of hunting friends or conservation agents, you may yield enough deer skin for several projects. Check with conservation agents for road-killed woodchucks, raccoons or other animals. A group project could be to visit a local deer check station during hunting season and offer to help hunters skin their game in return for hides. (Instructions on skinning are in the Hunter Education guide; instructions on tanning are provided in Project 6 of this unit.)
Tanned leather is sold by weight per square foot. Thus, one-ounce leather weighs one ounce per square foot, two-ounce leather weighs two ounces per square foot and likewise for other weights. One-ounce leather is approximately l /64 " thick, two-ounce leather is 2 /64 " or l /32 ", and the measurement continues to get thicker with heavier weights. Leather is usually sold by the hide, half-hide or by parts such as back or shoulder and charged per square foot.
Intended use determines the type of leather purchased. Common uses and weights are:
- belt leather 7-9 oz.: cowhide, pigskin, calfskin
- handbags 4-10 oz.: cowhide or garment leather
- garment leather 2-3 oz.: buckskin, garment suede, chamois
Leatherworking steps
Cutting leather with a razor knife
Holes made with a leather punch and mallet
The steps in most leatherworking projects can be grouped as follows: layout, cutout, assembly and finishing. Layout involves making a full-scale pattern of all pieces. Cutout involves cutting the pieces of leather. Assembly includes dyeing the leather, marking and punching the stitch lines and stitching. Finishing includes oiling, polishing and burnishing.
Layout
Begin the project by making patterns of all required pieces. The patterns should be actual size. Cut out the patterns with scissors.
Arrange the pieces on the wrong side of the leather, being careful to minimize waste and to take advantage of the shape of the leather.
Next, attach the paper or cardboard patterns to the wrong side of the leather with rubber cement. (The wrong side is the side that will not be visible in the finished product, such as the inside of garments and bags.) Use the cement sparingly-tack the patterns in place. Be careful not to get any cement on areas of the leather that will be visible in the finished product-especially if the leather is to be dyed.
Cutout
Cut the pieces using a sharp knife or scissors. A razor knife works well. Be sure to provide a backing of wood or cardboard to protect tabletops or floors. Hold the knife or scissors so the cut edge is perpendicular to the face of the leather.
When cutting thick leather, make several passes with the knife, being careful to follow the previous cut.
Assembly
Assembly procedures are generally similar for all projects with one important exception: heavy leather must be pre-punched before stitching. With soft leather, a glover's needle (which is triangular with sharp edges) eliminates the need for pre-punching.
For heavy leather, begin by making the stitch lines l/8 to l/4 inch (l/2 cm) from the edge. Using an awl or punch, make regularly spaced holes through. Cutting leather with a razor knife. Holes made with a leather punch and all the leather pieces that are joined. If possible, glue pieces together with rubber cement as they will be stitched. This will assure proper alignment of stitch holes. Consistent holes are important so seams don't pucker. Drive the awl by hand; drive the punch with a mallet.
When punching the leather, strive for uniformity, but recognize that small inconsistencies are the mark of human craftsmanship. Tools are available make stitching uniform, but these tend to give a machine-made look.
Buckskin may or may not have to be pre-punched. Glover's needles will usually penetrate several thicknesses of buckskin. For thicker buckskin, a sewing awl can be used, punching holes as you sew. Use a thimble and skin pad (folded leather in the palm of the hand) to protect hands while punching. A good leatherworker will hold both needle and awl in the same hand and simply alternate tools as they sew. Do not try to pre-punch individual pieces of soft leather and then join them. The stitch holes invariably will not match, giving the seams a puckered appearance.
Leather should be dyed with a leather dye after the stitch holes are punched. Alcohol-based dyes penetrate well and produce excellent results. Follow the instructions that come with the dye. To sew a garment, select one of the stitches described in the next section and sew all pieces.
Finishing
Once all of the seams are sewn, the project is ready for finishing. Finish hard leather by working neat 's-foot oil or mink oil into the leather. Protect exposed edges by rubbing briskly with beeswax. Do not oil buckskin or suede garments.
Stitches
There are several stitches that can be used to sew leather. The most common ones are the running stitch, saddle stitch and whipstitch.
For all stitches, begin by cutting a length of thread about an arm's length. If the thread is not pre-waxed, wax it now by passing it several times across a cake of beeswax. Thread one or both ends of the thread with needles (this will depend upon the stitch). When sewing a single thickness of thread, pass the strand through the needle's eye and pull several inches through. Twist this end around the main thread. When sewing with a doubled thread, pull the strand through the needle until both of the ends match up. Knot the thread with an overhand knot.
Always begin and end seams by backstitching. Backstitching is not a type of stitch, it is a technique for beginning and ending a seam, or joining a new piece of thread into the seam. The purpose of backstitching is to lock the thread and prevent unraveling at the ends of the seam.
To backstitch, simply take several stitches of whatever type is being used in the opposite direction of the desired seam, then return through the same stitch holes in the direction of the seam. When starting to sew a seam, don't begin with the first hole or at the very edge of the leather. Instead, skip several holes and begin sewing about an inch from the edge. Stitch back to the edge of the leather or first hole. Reverse directions and proceed along the seam until the thread is almost exhausted or the end of the seam is reached. Now backstitch several holes, approximately an inch. If joining a new thread, backstitch so that it begins where the old thread ends. Backstitching should be visible only on close inspection.
Running Stitch
The simplest stitch in leatherworking is a running stitch. Use single or dou-bled thread and one needle. Simply pass the needle through one hole and then back through the next hole from the opposite side. The finished stitch looks like a dashed line. Small stitches are stronger and look better than large ones. A running stitch can be used for heavy leather or soft leather.
Saddle Stitch
The saddle stitch requires a single thickness of thread with harness or round needles at both ends. It is recommended for pre-punched stitches since both needles pass through the same holes.
Begin saddle stitch by passing one needle through the aligned holes at one end of the seam. Pull through until there are equal amounts of thread on both sides of the leather. Take one needle and start it through the next stitch hole from the same side of the leather. Start the other needle through the same hole from the opposite side. Grasp both needles and pull through until the stitch is taut. Put equal tension on both needles. Repeat the procedure at the next stitch hole and so on until the end of the seam. If possible, grip the leather pieces between your knees so that the work is perpendicular to the floor. This makes it easier to pass the needles back and forth.
Whipstitch
The whipstitch is used for both hard and soft leather. The leather may or may not be pre-punched. Either a single or double strand of thread may be used, but a double strand is preferable. Use only one needle. Pass the threaded needle through the work, and pull all but a few inches through. Move to the next stitch hole and push the needle through, starting from the same side as for the previous stitch. In this way, when the thread is pulled taut, the stitch passes over the edge of the joined leather pieces. The stitching motion for the whipstitch is circular. Keep stitches fairly close together.
Note to teachers and youth leaders: For instructor lesson plans of these materials, contact the Department's Outreach and Education Division.
