Windbreaks
Please read all directions before beginning any new project!
Windbreaks can provide many benefits-reduced heating bills, protection from high winds and snow, noise reduction, conservation of moisture, improved wildlife habitat, and improved aesthetic quality.
Where space permits, a windbreak of five rows of trees and shrubs is recommended. A 5 row windbreak with proper spacing between rows will measure from 80 to 90 feet in width. Where space is limited, three rows,measuring from 40 to 50 feet in width, may be established.
Hardwood and deciduous trees, which shed their leaves in the fall, are not as effective as evergreen species for winter protection. However, the bare limbs of deciduous trees will reduce wind velocities to some extent. Also, hardwood species are faster growing and taller at maturity than most evergreens. A combination of evergreens and hardwoods is recommended for demonstration purposed in an outdoor classroom.
Planning for windbreaks should be undertaken in the fall with planting in the spring. The following diagrams will help in this planning.
| ROW 1 | ROW 2 | ROW 3 | ROW 4 | ROW 5 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Black haw | Black alder | Pin oak | Black alder | Black haw |
| Deciduous holly | Hawthorn | northern red oak | Hawthorn | Deciduous holly |
| Flowering quince | Jack pine | Shingle oak | Jack pine | Flowering quince |
| Forsythia | Persimmon | Soft maple | Persimmon | Forsythia |
| Highbush cranberry | Red cedar | White pine | Red cedar | Highbush cranberry |
| Lilac | Scotch pine | Green ash | Scotch pine | Lilac |
| Mock orange | Serviceberry | Loblolly pine | Serviceberry | Mock Orange |
| Redbud | Norway spruce | Shortleaf pine | Norway spruce | Redbud |
| Pyracantha | Yellow Poplar | Pyracantha | ||
| Privet | Privet | |||
| Nanking cherry | Nanking cherry | |||
| Tatarian honeysuckle | Tatarian honeysuckle |
PLANTING PLAN
The diagram below shows the planting arrangement of a hardwood and evergreen windbreak. The staggered row arrangement gives best coverage.
Rows one through three can be used when planning a three-row windbreak with row one on the windward side(side exposed to the wind). To be effective, a three-row windbreak should have its inside row no less than 100 feet from any building or roads needing protection from winds and drifting snow. In planning the shape of windbreak, consideration should be given to wind direction, roads, lanes, topography, buildings, fences,available space, and other trees present.
It is suggested that the windbreak site be marked for planting before the trees and shrubs arrive. Planting should begin as soon as possible. If delay is necessary, the seedling must be stored in a cool place in the shade. The roots should be kept moist but not submerged in standing water.
When planting the seedling are carried in buckets filled with water, avoiding exposure of roots to roots and wind. The importance of the roots remaining moist until planting cannot be over stressed. It is recommended trees in small numbers be planted by using a tree planting bar or tile spade. A power post hole auger is an ideal way of planting larger seedlings.
Most losses of seedling take place during the first year when the seedling are just beginning to develop. The roots require thorough watering on a weekly basis through the first growing season, especially during the hot summer months.
Any attempt to establish a windbreak without weed control is likely to be disastrous. Weeds may be controlled by cultivation or mulching. Immediately after planting, trees need to be staked to provide stability during the first year and to provide protection from lawn mowers, especially in those areas where weed control may be delayed.
Fertilizer should not be applied for a year or two to avoid competition from grass and weeds. Excessive applications of fertilizer can damage young roots.
