Tree planting could be compared with making chili - many different variations of a basic recipe can be used to fit the circumstances. Existing soil conditions will determine the planting techniques required. For most soils that are well-drained or that are not excessively compacted, the following steps should be followed:
- Preparing a wide hole for planting is more important than a deep hole. Most of the feeder roots, those important for absorbing nutrients and water, exist in the upper 6 to 10 inches of soil. Excavate a pit that is at least twice the diameter of the rootball and the same depth - no deeper. Never plant it deeper than it grew in the nursery. Handle the tree by the rootball, not the trunk. Be sure the root- ball or container soil rests on solid ground. For best root development, enlarge the planting area by removing existing turf, then spading or tilling the soil in a wide ring.
- Carefully cut twine wrapped around the trunk at the top of the rootball. Remove burlap from the top of the rootball to prevent the exposed burlap from drawing moisture from the soil. Completely remove any plastic burlap or container. When planting bare rooted trees, spread the roots over a mound of soil and fill around them. Container grown trees should have any encircling roots cut.
- Backfill the pit with loose excavated soil. Use local topsoil for backfill if the excavated soil is poor quality. Discard rocks and debris.
- Saturate the entire pit with water. If needed, add more soil to compensate for settling.
- Cover the planting area with three inches of wood or bark chips. Do not put mulch against the trunk; leave a small gap. Keep mulch weeded. Replace as needed to maintain a mulch layer three inches deep.
- Prune only broken or deformed branches. Begin a regular pruning program the second or third year after planting.
The following procedures are optional:
7. A cylinder of hardware cloth can be placed around the trunk if rabbits, mice or other rodents may chew on the bark. Stakes may be used to prevent shifting of the rootball or to protect the stem from mowing equipment. Drive one or more stakes near the tree but not through the roots.
8. If ties are used to secure the trunk, place them low on the stem and with slack in the tie material. Wires should be placed through tubing or hose sections to prevent damage to the bark. Flexible plastic ties are also available. Remove ties when the tree can stand alone- about three months, or longer if necessary.
9. Tree wraps may help to prevent trunk damage from sun exposure. Use a stretchable wrapping material. Do not allow wrap or binding to constrict the stem. Tree wraps are usually only needed during the first season, if at all.
Planting in compacted soils, dense subsoils or soils that are poorly drained require a slightly different approach to help roots develop. The following modifications are needed to the standard tree planting method. Note that extra topsoil will be needed.
- Excavate a wide, shallow hole that is three to four times the width of the root ball or container and only 1/2 as deep.
- Backfill the pit with local topsoil or finely chopped excavated soil to improve aeration. Mound extra backfill to the top of the root-ball and flare to the outer edges of the pit.
- Soils that are excessively wet may need a subsurface drain tube placed below the roots and run downhill to the ground surface.
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